Fabrication and Characterization of Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate for Skin Anti-Aging

Abstract

Ji Won Yu, Hayoung Choi, Wonchoul Park, Jin-Su Kim and Gwang Hoon Kim

Background: Ascorbic acid (AA) is a powerful antioxidant that can help slow premature skin aging, improve the appearance of acne, wrinkles and dark spots, and against sun damage. Despite these advantages, the low oxidative stability and skin penetration rate of AA are major obstacles to commercial applications and require improvement.

Methods: In this study, we developed ascorbyl propyl hyaluronate (APH), a hyaluronic acid conjugated with ascorbic acid, to overcome the disadvantages of AA. To confirm the characteristics of the developed APH, the thermal stability, skin penetration rate, and antioxidant capacity were evaluated, and the cell viability, cell proliferation, and skin-related cell regeneration efficacy were compared with the conventional AA.

Results: We demonstrated that APH is improved thermal stability than AA while maintaining antioxidant activity. In addition, APH was not cytotoxic and increased cell proliferation in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, APH not only reduces inflammatory cytokine expression, melanin content, and cellular tyrosinase activity, but also increases type 1 collagen production, Enhanced cell barrier function and actin filament development.

Conclusion: This strategy using APH with improved oxidative stability and tissue penetration efficiency is expected to provide a useful source for maximizing the effectiveness of anti-aging and skin tissue regeneration in the future when combined with various modern skin aging treatments.

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